- Size: 63 inches point to point
- Colors: Soft Forest Green, Forest Green, Rich Periwinkle, Seascape Ombre (Bernat Berella)
- Pattern: Round Ripple Afghan - Design by Mary Jane Protus - with my own modifications to increase from 6 points to 12 points to 24 points (how did I do it?)
- Book: New Crochet Basics - Leaflet 777- Copyright 1989 - Leisure Arts
- Hook: H
- Date: start April 7; finish April 18
William is a young man I met just over 5 years ago during my second job interview at the college. He showed me around the two spaces where the new Web Designer would possibly be sitting. Bright, friendly, and just 4 years older than my son, I took to him like a mom.
We shared an office for my first few months at the college. Since he was the go-to person with regard to the college's course management system and technology used in the classroom, we have similar skill sets and regularly geeked out together over web technologies.
Over the years, I watched him grow, be a good dad, be a good husband, have a second child, begin coaching soccer... Mature. But still be fun.
At the end of April, he moved on to a job as a Web Designer at a web design firm. When I learned he was looking for new opportunities, I decided to make him and his family a round ripple afghan - here it is!
I miss William, but like any good mom would do, I encouraged him to reach for more, to try something new, to grow.
I increased the number of points for my round ripple afghan by crocheting an additional point in each valley on the rows where I wanted to double the number of points (6 to 12, then later 12 to 24), then continued the up-and-down (hill-and-valley) ripple pattern. See the 4th and 5th photos of this post for photos of an added point.
Someone at Crochetville posted photos of the way they added points to their afghan using granny squares in the ripple valley.
The way I added the points it allows for more color striping options vs. the granny square method.
[Update August 30, 2007 5:50pm] Here's a more detailed explanation of how I added the new points...
As the hills (points) and valleys get larger and larger, it is possible to add a new point in each valley to create more hills.
So, when the side of a hill is, for example, 22 or 23 stitches long, finish that row and tie off the yarn.
Then, divide the number of stitches in the hillside by 2. So, 22 or 23 divided by 2 equals 11 stitches.
* Now you'll start a new point in one of the valleys: From the top of any hill/point, count down 11 stitches and start a row for the new point in the 12th stitch. Continue making stitches down that hillside, do the stitch you've been using at the bottom of the valley for all the other rows, and make the same number of stitches up the next hillside, leaving 11 stitches UNDONE before the top of the next hill/point. First row of new point is done.
On each successive row of the new point, you'll want to do a decrease at the beginning and the end so that a point is formed. The last row of the new point will be either 2 or 3 stitches. When done, the new point SHOULD BE the same length as the original points.
Repeat from * in each remaining valley.
Whew. Look closely at photos 4 and 5 (click the thumbnails to see larger versions) above and you'll see the rows in the new points.